We moved the stove to the far wall, to make more space in the eat-in location of the cooking area. This required running a new gas line to power the range (the old stove was electrical) as well as rerouting ventilation for the hood vent. First, we pulled whatever out. I had actually rearranged all of the cabinetry digitally on AutoCAD initially to make certain I could get the footprint I desired without physically reorganizing them in place.
Next, I removed the hardware from the doors and drawers, and filled the holes where the drawer pulls and door knobs utilized to be, considering that we prepared to use new ones with various accessory points. To fill the holes, I utilized Plastic Wood brand wood filler, which dries within 15 minutes. kitchen cabinet painting portland.
The most essential action of painting your cabinets is cleaning them very well very first. Use a degreasing cleaning agent in your water and a non-scratch, yet abrasive pad (something you might use to clean a non-stick skillet), and really scrub hard! I believed I had cleaned my cabinets really well, however after painting, I discovered a few grease dots that were showing through the paint.
So, please take it from memake sure your cabinets are super tidy before painting. After washing and drying the cabinets, I started painting with the chalk paint, without sanding or using a guide. I was surprised at how thick the chalk paint went on, and how rapidly it dried (how to paint kitchen cabinet hinges). I had the ability to paint a coat, and instantly start another.
After the light sanding, the paint surface was so silky smoothyou 'd never understand there was oak below! Typically, chalk paint is finished with wax, but due to the fact that kitchen area cabinets receive such heavy wear, I wanted to use a finish that would not need maintenance - kelly moore paint for kitchen cabinets. My go-to wood sealant is polyurethane, but it's a surface that notoriously yellows.
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So I used a water-based Polycrylic rather, which does not utilize urethane as a hardener, so it will not yellow with time. I brushed 3 coats of Polycrylic onto the cabinet bases, and sprayed 3 coats onto the doors and drawers. It took 2 1/2 pints to cover the cabinet base and island, and 3 bottles to spray the doors and drawers.
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They came unfinished, so I used Minwax's natural stain and sealed with a few coats of polyurethane. I used polyurethane rather than Polycrylic, since it isn't water-based and will stand up to being wiped and deals with constantly, while I am a bit concerned about how Polycrylic may possibly become tacky after years of wiping and handling (milk paint for cabinets reviews).
Chalk paint dries rapidly. Chalk paint is thick and requires less coats of paint. There's no need to prime. If painted over currently sealed wood, tannins of the wood will not leak into the white paint, causing brownish discolorations. Chalk paint will hide heavily grained wood like oak. Chalk paint is thick and leaves brush marks.
However this requires you to have additional on hand for touch-ups. It is difficult to hide the tannins when painting over locations that have been newly sanded and not sealed, like the locations around the hardware holes I filled. These areas needed a few additional coats of paint, though primer might be more effective at doing this.
Chalk paint can't be brushed on as evenly as latex paint can be sprayed on. Some edges of my doors and drawers have thicker coats of paint and nearly globby areas, though I bewared not to put it on too thick. The paint surface will be very smooth and even, if done the correct way.